This morning came very early and all of us got up, got showers, and got packed. Robert and I have so much stuff we've decided to buy a new piece of luggage in Florence and mail home my small luggage with souvenirs and extra clothes we won't need.
Venice was gorgeous. I'm sad we're already leaving. I've fallen in love with "Venetian Time" which is late to everything. The Toro d'orologio clock strikes 2 minutes before the hour, signifying the past and older age, and 2 minutes after the hour signifying the future and youth. And the 2 minutes after is part of the Venetian culture of being late for everything. They also hear the gongs 2 minutes before the hour and say "the future is coming".
Venice has a bit of ocean smell mixed with a bit of musty, still canal water. Every window is covered in heavily rusted iron bars. Every building is flaking, decaying, salt-rimmed, crumbling, eroding. All the streets are cobblestones. Those cobblestones ate the wheels on Anya's suitcase.
Some streets have small slats in the sides that apparently let rain drain off the alleyway. And there are shrines built into walls that are rusted and Ancient. Shrines to saints and the virgin are on every other block. There are ancient small statues and silk roses and tiny brass brazier and things inside the glass enclosed shrines that mostly have iron bars as well. Venice is catholic.
The Venetians sweep the side streets dutifully every morning, using a long broom with long, medieval like bristles. I assume it must be easier to gather the garbage on the cobblestones. But it's charming. The island is incredibly clean.
The Venetian people are 100% fit and totally mellow, until they're not. On one vaporetto I heard an Italian man scream at a couple to "get off the stairs! Go up or go down but WAKE UP AND GET OFF THE STAIRS." I can tell you I was absolutely glad he wasn't screaming at me! He was mad.
But most Venetians seem to be patient and relaxed at all times. Nobody was unkind to us and everyone was jovial. One young waiter told us he wished he could eat In And Out Burgers all day, in the U.S. that was funny. But most Venetians love where they live.
But tourists outweigh locals on Venice, 10 to 1. It's an odd thing. We know people live there and make love there because we saw children going to school each day, but I wonder how they feel about the tourism.
Everything is cheap. Linen shirts for men? $28 Euro. All 3 of the masks we bought and had shipped home? $200. Crazy.
And when people say the Italians are well dressed, they're not kidding. You can tell an Italian from a tourist by shoes alone, and definitely by shirt!
But I'm sad to not be navigating the canals, the waterways, the squares, and the water closets there anymore.
What I will miss is the getting up, going to the local coffee stop, and ordering cappuccino e macchiato e a plain croissant.
Belle caos!!!
2 comments:
Blessed treasured reading. I so wanted to know how you truly felt about Venice. Beautiful
I think much has been written about the invasion of tourists in Venice, especially the cruise ships. It is a sad thing, and happening so many places in the world. Especially sad that Venice is crumbling. I will be interested to hear you speak of how the culture is crumbling as well, over WTF coffee back home someday. I have often heard it said that if you are to see Venice, you need to do it now, quickky. I am glad that you did. The memory will always be special to you, always.
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